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ZABAR'S

Lori Zabar

A Family Story, with Recipes

The fascinating, mouthwatering story (with recipes!) of the immigrant family that created a New York gastronomic legend: "The most rambunctious and chaotic of all delicatessens, with one foot in the Old World and the other in the vanguard of every fast-breaking food move in the city" (Nora Ephron).
When Louis and Lilly Zabar rented a counter in a dairy store on 80th Street and Broadway in 1934 to sell smoked fish, they could not have imagined that five decades later their store would occupy half a city block and become a beloved, world-renowned mecca for quality food of all kinds. A passion for perfection, a keen business sense, cutthroat competitive instincts, and devotion to their customers led four generations of Zabars to create the Upper West Side shrine to the cheese, fish, meat, produce, baked goods, and prepared products that heralded the 20th-century revolution in food production and consumption.

Lori Zabar - Louis's granddaughter - begins with her grandfather's escape from Ukraine in 1921, following a pogrom in which his father, a sister, and an uncle were killed, and his (illegal!) entry into the United States from Canada. She describes Zabar's gradual expansion, Louis's untimely death in 1950, and the passing of the torch to Saul, Stanley, and partner Murray Klein, who raised competitive pricing to an art form and added top-tier houseware and appliances to Zabar's shelves. She paints a delectable portrait of Zabar's as it is today - the intoxicating aromas, the crowds, the devoted staff - and shares behind-the-scenes anecdotes of the long-time employees, family members, eccentric customers, and celebrity fans who have created a uniquely American institution that honors its immigrant roots, revels in its New York history, and is relentless in its devotion to the art and science of selling gourmet food.

LORI ZABAR is an art, decorative arts, and architectural historian, an historic preservationist, and a retired attorney. Now an independent curator and consultant, she was for many years a researcher in the American Wing and the Modern & Contemporary Department of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
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Published 2022-05-03 by Schocken Books

Comments

A must-read for anyone who has ever stepped foot in this New York City landmark, and a way for everyone else to find out what they've been missing.

When I think of New York City and the impact of the food culture here, it goes without saying that Zabar's is at the top of the list. You truly can't say you have experienced New York City without having gone to the world-famous delicatessen on the Upper West Side.

Lori Zabar's wonderful book is the story of America. Her family went from Eastern European immigrants to wildly successful businesspeople in just a few generations. I love this book, and the Zabar's recipes are a delicious bonus!